Full Circle

Mark and I trace the genesis of our whiskey adventures back to a science fiction convention in March of last year, but perhaps the biggest watershed for us was attending WhiskeyFest San Francisco in 2007. WhiskeyFest is an annual event hosted by Malt Advocate Magazine in Chicago, New York and as of last year, San Francisco. They rent the ballroom of a major hotel and fill it with whiskey exhibitors to the tune of about 250 different bottles from all over the world. I wrote about one of our more colorful experiences there in The Teacher's Pet, but there were many more important moments from that night. Really, we went from drinking almost exclusively Irish whiskey to finding some of the most exceptional Bourbon, Scotch and world whiskies we've seen to this day. We had the opportunity to meet and speak with some of the most knowledgeable and respected names in the business and try some rare and brilliantly crafted whiskies. Imagine being seven years-old and going to Disneyland and you'll have a good start at how excited we were.

That's all just preamble though. We had the great pleasure of being behind the Bulleit Bourbon table for this year's event which was held at the San Francisco Marriott this past Friday. Joining us at the table were Tom Bulleit, founder of Bulleit Bourbon and his daughter Hollis, a world ambassador for the brand. The Bulleits are delightful people and are as passionate and conversant as anyone else I've met in the whiskey world.

I had the opportunity to sneak away for a few minutes and sample a few quick drams during the night. One of the highlights of the evening was a quick conversation with John Glaser, master blender and founder of Compass Box, and a true artist. I've always found his blends to be rich, complex and well-balanced. I frequently use his products when I'm at a tasting and hear someone say "I hate blended Scotch", because they unfailingly punch through the inaccurate stereotype blends are frequently burdened with. Our conversation culminated with John pouring me some of his new Peat Monster Reserve. This is a new version of an old favorite put out to commemorate the 5th anniversary of his smokiest blend. He has switched the lead from Caol Isla (one of my favorite everyday whiskies) to the more intuitive Laphroig. The new incarnation is a little more robust and heavy, but still balanced with an elegant hint of apple-citrus sweetness. It will be difficult to find as there are under 6000 bottles being produced, but it only comes in a magnum so at least it will last a while.

So, I may have underplayed my feelings for non-Irish whiskey coming into WhiskeyFest '07. I was in fact, a vulgar bigot. This was in part because I was not yet acclimated to the taste of peat and many non-peated whiskies lacked the kind of potency I was looking for. And then I tried the Glenrothes 1987 and never looked back. So it was a special treat for me to be able to come back to the Rothes table and l find my favorite dram of the evening. The Glenrothes 1978 started with deep chocolate-raspberry notes and opened into a ginger spice with slight floral notes. The dried summer fruit finish lasted me the rest of the night.

The best part of the evening, as it always is at events like this, is the chance to catch up with friends and associates from the industry. When I said as much to Rick Edwards, Glenlivet brand ambassador and someone I always like to chat with, he said "this business is a fraternal organization". The brand competition is all friendly and the unifying factor among the attendees and exhibitors alike is a love of fine whiskey. In short, my people.